Frequently Asked Questions

Stays were the precursor to the more widely-known corset. They were usually worn as an undergarment and acted as bust and back support. Stays were worn by western women of all classes from the late 1500’s – 1790. During the Regency period in the late 18th century and early 19th century (1790-1820) the shape and style of stays changed and eventually became the more modern corset which was worn through the 1910’s.

Stays were also called “bodies” or “a pair of bodies” as the garment was made in two halves, laced together in the front and back. This same naming rule also applies to stays, which is why we say “a pair of stays” when referring to a single garment. The singular term “a stay” is incorrect, similar to how we say “a pair of pants” and not “a pant” to refer to one garment.

Historically, stays were made from different types of fabric depending on the wealth of the owner. Linen, some types of wool, and silk were most common. These pieces were made up of at least two layers of fabric with some type of stiffening in between. Common types of stiffening material included reeds, buckram layers (a fabric stiffened with glue), and whalebone. Whalebone is made from baleen, the filter in the mouths of baleen whales, not the actual bones of whales. Real bone would be too brittle and breakable, whereas baleen is stiff but bendable. Today we use synthetic boning made from plastic, which has similar qualities to baleen. Metal boning is also used, mostly for corsets in the 19th century styles. 

While the purpose of the two garments is the same (bust and back support, shaping the torso to the fashionable silhouette at the time), the overall shape is different. Stays were worn during a time when a flat front and conical shape to the torso were popular. When styles changed in the early 1800’s, a more natural body shape became preferable and thus corsets were shaped to conform to this new silhouette. Where stays have a flat front with lifted bust, corsets have a curved front with bust in it’s (more or less) natural position. Corsets also extend down over the hips, whereas stays end just below the waist with tabs.

Some changes in materials and construction methods also occurred with the onset of the Industrial Revolution and introduction of sewing machines. Stays were made by hand, with hand-sewn eyelets which made them less amenable to tight lacing. As metal grommets began to be used as eyelets, this allowed tightlacing in the Victorian and Edwardian eras. However, most women did not tight lace (contrary to popular belief) as it was uncomfortable and restricted the movement. Other changes included the use of metal boning, and the introduction of tightly woven cotton coutil as a preferred fabric type. The style of lacing also changed from spiral lacing to the now ubiquitous criss-cross lacing. 

Below are some examples of stays and corsets from 1620 through 1890. Notice how the shape changes from conical to a more natural curve. 

Most of my stays are based on a more modern pattern I’ve created which does not have hip tabs. The lack of hip tabs is the main difference between my styles and historical styles. Other than that, the pattern I use has a less pronounced conical shape which gives a more modern look, and I do not use spiral lacing as was done historically. What is the same however is the flat front (created in part by the heavy boning) and lifted bust. I consider my stays a modern corset inspired by historical styles.

I do have a few styles available that have hip tabs and are more historically accurate, and I will be adding more in the future as well since I’m so in love with that silhouette. Truly historical-style stays are extremely labor intensive and therefore have a higher price point. 

When a pair of stays is well-made and fits you correctly, yes they should be comfortable. Stays are not meant to be tight-laced, meaning you will generally have about 2-4″ of waist reduction for the purpose of supporting the bust. Tight-lacing (reducing the waist more than 4″)  is a personal choice and is not necessary to wearing stays. 

Stays will restrict your ability to bend from your waist, which forces you to bend at the hips instead. This can take some getting used to, but it is actually much better for our posture and back health to bend at the hips in most cases. For example you are still able to sit, but not to slouch. 

One of the common misconceptions about stays and corsets is that they make it difficult to breathe. While it is not difficult to breathe wearing stays, you will most likely find yourself breathing through the chest rather than the stomach. Deep belly breaths will mostly not be possible but this does depend on how tightly the stays are laced. In either case, it does not feel difficult to breathe whatsoever and remember that women were running, riding horses, and doing labor-intensive chores for hundreds of years wearing these garments with no trouble.  

If the stays are too short or too long in the torso for you they may cause discomfort by digging into the underarm (too long) or the ribs (too short). When I make stays to your measurements I will always take your side rise measurement for this reason. 

If a pair of stays is lightly boned (less than about 16 pieces of boning across the front depending on size), they may be less comfortable than stays that are heavily boned as was done historically. When you only have a few pieces of boning, they are less supportive and therefore will bend and poke into your body when you bend. Not only does this not give good bust support or the flat front shape, it is also uncomfortable. Heavily boned stays will be supportive enough that you cannot bend the stays at the waist and therefore they will not be able to poke or dig into you. 

All of my listings will have recommended measurements for each garment. If your measurements fall within that range, the stays should fit you! You are always welcome to message me with any fitting questions or concerns before making a purchase and I am happy to help you determine if a specific pair will fit you.

My stays are sized by bust measurement in inches (32-52). To determine your size:

– Take your bust measurement (with no bra on!) at the widest part of your bust.

– Take your waist measurement at your natural waist. The natural waist is usually the smallest part of your torso, but not necessarily. To find your waist, bend to the side. Wherever you naturally bend from should be your waist. 

– Take your side rise measurement. This is at the side, from your waist up to the underarm where a tank top’s underarm would sit. 

More details if you want to get nerdy:

Stays are made with negative ease, meaning when worn their measurements will be less than your body’s measurements. Stays must be smaller than your body in order to support your bust and give the proper shape. For example, if your bust measures 38″, you will want a pair of stays that are size 36 or even 34. 

Bust size also is important to take into consideration. If you wear an A or B cup bra, you will want only 2″ of reduction for support. If you wear a C or D cup, I recommend 3-4″ reduction. Larger than a D cup I recommend 4-8″ of reduction depending on your size. 

I also recommend a smaller lacing gap for front lacing stays than for back lacing stays. This means that you can wear a smaller size in back lacing stays than front lacing, as the gap is in the back. Lacing gaps in the back are not only less noticeable but also less important since it’s our fronts that generally need the support of the boning. So for example if you have a 38″ bust and wear a C cup, I would recommend a size 36 for front lacing and size 34 or 36 for back lacing.  

Overall, if you are a smaller person (normally wearing size XS, Small, or Medium) you should be fine with stays that are 2″ smaller than your bust measurement. If you wear Large or XL, go for 3-4″ smaller. XXL and up, choose 4-6″ smaller than your bust size. 

If you are in any doubt about which size to choose, please message me and I will help you! 

Yes! I am happy to make stays for any size. I will add $20 more for sizes above an 3XL to cover the materials and time (hand cutting and filing boning is very labor intensive). Feel free to message me with any questions before placing your order. 

I highly recommend always wearing a washable layer between your skin and your stays. This was done historically and is still considered best practice to extend the longevity of the garment and for your comfort as well. 

Stays should never be put in a washer or dryer. Instead, spot clean your stays depending on the type of fabric they’re made from. Handwashing the entire garment is not recommended but can be done if necessary. Remove lacing ribbons, use a gentle soap and cold water, lay flat to dry. 

Yes! We are located Eugene, Oregon in the United States and can ship to many countries. However, due to the EU’s new GPSR regulations as of December 2024, we can no longer ship to the EU and Northern Ireland. 

Please note that Lineage Garments is not responsible for any import duties, taxes, tariffs, or fees your country may charge. Payment of these is the responsibility of the customer.

There are countries that we can not legally ship to, if you place an order from one of these areas your order will be refunded.